Radar has been around for more than 100 years
and has progressed from being a scientific novelty
to becoming the most versatile of marine
electronics. You can use radar to find out where
you are, to find your way into unfamiliar harbors,
to dodge thunderstorms, or even to find fish by
picking out flocks of feeding seabirds. By far its
most important use it that for which it was first
intended—collision avoidance.
Radar works by transmitting short, intense
pulses of radio energy, then listening for the
faint echoes that come back. Using radar
effectively is a multi-stage process that involves
making the most of the tiny scraps of energy that
are reflected from distant objects or poor
reflectors, then removing the clutter that is
produced by reflections from things we don’t
want to see, such as waves and sometimes clouds.
After that, you can start on the third stage—interpreting
the useful information you have received.
THE RIGHT SETTINGS
Brightness, contrast and color: These elements
help you see contacts more clearly, so they need
to be set up properly. Set the brightness control
high enough for the picture to be visible, but not
so high that it is dazzling. If you still have a
unit with a monochrome display, adjust the
contrast so it gives the clearest picture possible.
Most color displays offer a choice of color
palettes, and which one you choose is up to you.
Most people prefer to have a dark background at
night.
Gain: The gain control adjusts
the receiver’s amplification. If gain is set too
high, the screen will be filled with a mass of
speckles. This is the visual equivalent of the
noise you hear when the squelch control is wrongly
adjusted on a radio. If it is set too low, real
echoes will be missed.
First, increase the gain control until the
screen is full of speckles, then reduce it until
the speckles have disappeared from all but the
center of the screen. At short ranges, it often
pays to turn the gain down a little further,
because this produces a less “blobby” picture.
When looking for weak or distant targets, turn it
back up until the speckles start to reappear.
 |
| TUNING: Always
make tuning adjustments in small steps;
make sure the weak contacts are as
strong and bright as possible. |
Tuning: Even though a radar
listens for the echoes of its own transmissions,
the receiver still needs to be tuned to the right
frequency. Luckily, the “auto-tune” function
on most modern radar sets is very good at doing
this. If you want, or need to, tune your set by
hand, set the gain first, then select a long or
medium range and look for a weak contact on the
screen. Next, adjust the tuning in small steps,
either up or down, waiting about three seconds
after each adjustment for the picture to be
completely redrawn under the new setting. If the
contact looks weaker, adjust the tuning back the
other way. Keep going until the contact is as
strong and bright as possible.
 |
| CLUTTER CONTROL:
Because it's a crude tool, it must be
used carefully in order to avoid
removing boats, buoys, and even land. |
Clutter control: Some things
produce echoes we don’t really want to see.
Seawater, in particular, is such a good reflector
that the center of a radar screen is often packed
with big bright blobs generated by the radar
energy being reflected from waves immediately
around the boat. The sea-clutter control can
remove these blobs, but it’s a crude tool that
can also erase boats, buoys and even land.
To be sure it is working effectively, turn the
sea-clutter control down to its minimum setting.
That way you will know it’s doing no harm. Then,
if sea clutter truly is a problem, you can turn
the clutter control back up, as little as possible.
Finally, there is the interference-rejection
control that erases visual clutter caused when
your radar receives transmissions from another
boat’s radar. This control can do nothing but
good, so there’s no point in switching it off.
 |
| SEA AND RAIN
CLUTTER: Sea clutter is at the bottom of
the photo at the center of the range
rings; rain clutter is directly above on
the vertical heading mark |
Rain-clutter controls can be equally dangerous.
While they do remove smudgy contacts created by
rain clouds, they also degrade echoes from genuine
targets. The rule of thumb here is the same as for
the sea-clutter control: turn it off when you
don’t need it, and then use it as sparingly as
you can.
Some radars have two rain-clutter controls, one
usually affects only the area in the middle of the
screen, while the other, often called “FTC,”
affects the entire scanning area.
Collision avoidance
One foggy morning a 900ft container ship,
heading west at 25 knots, collided with a 40ft
sailboat that, until a few minutes before the
collision, had been heading north at about 7
knots. The investigators criticized the ship’s
conduct, but they also found that if both vessels
had maintained their course and speed, the
sailboat would probably have passed at least three
quarters of a mile ahead of the ship.
Unfortunately, the sailboat skipper misinterpreted
his radar display and decided to stop—right in
front of the ship. The lesson here is that the
clearest radar contact in the world won’t do you
any good if you can’t make sense of it.
True or relative: Until a few
years ago one’s own vessel was always at the
center of a radar screen, heading straight up.
However, that’s no longer the case. True-motion
displays, in which the center of the radar picture
moves across the screen in step with the boat’s
movement in the real world, are increasingly
common.
In a collision avoidance situation, it’s best
to switch off the true-motion function, and go to
the relative-motion mode. Your vessel appears to
be stationary at the center of the radar screen,
while the rest of the world moves past it. There
are a number of options to consider.
 |
| NORTH UP
DISPLAY: Data provided by an electronic
compass enables the radar to be rotated
so the display has North in the up
position |
Head-up or North-up: All
radars can display a head-up picture, in which a
line pointing straight up from the center of the
screen represents the subject vessel’s forward
motion. This is useful, because things in front of
the boat are at the top of the screen, things on
the starboard side are on the right, and so forth.
But if the boat yaws, the picture also yaws, and
blobs representing other vessels turn into vague
smears.
Data sent from an electronic compass to the
radar allows it to rotate the head-up image to
produce a cap north-up picture where north is at
the top of the screen. In both formats, the
boat’s heading is still represented by the
straight line of the heading mark. Which display
you prefer is up to you.
 |
| COLLISION COURSE:
If a contact is moving directly toward
the center of the screen, and there is
no change of course, you will share the
same patch of water with the other
vessel |
Will it hit me?: For over a
century the Navigation Rules have advised that
“risk shall be deemed to exist if the compass
bearing of an approaching vessel does not
appreciably change.” On a relative-motion
display, where our own boat is at the center of a
radar image, the logic is obvious. If a contact
appears to be moving straight toward the center of
the screen, there is a risk of collision.
One easy way to tell if this is happening is to
use the feature known as “tracks, trails or
wakes,” in which the past positions of each
contact are displayed as a pale trail on the
screen. If you can, set the trail length to six
minutes or one tenth of an hour. This makes it
easy to calculate a contact’s speed. For example
if a trail is two miles long, the closing speed of
the other vessel is two miles in a tenth of an
hour, or 20 knots.
 |
| PASS ASTEARN: A
relative motion display shows the
direction and distance at which a
contact will pass closest to the center
of the screen, your boat; it's called
the CPA, or Closest Point of Approach |
Close approach: A conventional
compass can tell you whether there is a risk of
collision, but it can’t tell you if you’re
going to miss an approaching vessel by 500 or
2,000 yards. Radar can do this, as long as you
keep a record of the movement of a contact across
the screen, or if you look at the direction of the
wake the contact leaves behind it.
 |
| PASS AHEAD: If
the contact is tracking so it will cross
the heading marker and there is no
course or speed change, the contact will
cross in front of you |
If a contact is heading straight for the center
of the screen for a few minutes, unless someone
does something, the contact will continue to
converge. Suppose, though, that the contact
isn’t heading for the center, but is going to
pass 1,000 yards from the center? The same
principle applies here: unless someone does
something to change the situation, the contact
will keep moving in the same direction and at the
same speed, until it does pass 1,000 yards from
the screen’s center. The point at which the
contact is closest to the center of the
screen—the other ship is closest to your boat—is
called the closest point of approach, or CPA.
Remember, when predicting a CPA, if it appears
the contact will cross the heading marker, the
ship will pass ahead of us and we will pass astern
of it. But if the contact is going to pass behind
us, that means we will pass in front of it—just
like the boat that was hit by the container ship.
It is important to understand this distinction.
Giving way in fog: Normal
steering and sailing rules do not apply when
visibility is restricted by fog or other
conditions. This is when Rule 19 takes over. The
rule says, among other things, that if you detect
another vessel by radar, you should:
• Avoid altering course to port for a vessel
forward of the beam, other than for a vessel being
overtaken.
• Avoid altering course toward a vessel that
is abeam or abaft the beam.
In other words, in restricted visibility, the
Navigation Rules encourage you to alter course to
port for a vessel on your starboard quarter, and
to turn to starboard for everything else.